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History and Culture Peru is South America’s third largest country. Peru is best known as the heart of the Inca empire, but it was home to many diverse indigenous cultures long before the Incas arrived. Although there is evidence that humans lived in Peru as long ago as the eighth century BC , there is little evidence of organized village life until about 2500 BC. It was at about this time that climatic changes in the coastal regions prompted Peru's early inhabitants to move toward the more fertile interior river valleys. For the next 1500 years, Peruvian civilization developed into a number of organized cultures, including the Chavìn and the Sechìn. The Chavìn are best known for their stylized religious iconography, which included striking figurative depictions of various animals (the jaguar in particular) and which exercised considerable  influence over the entire coastal region. The Sechìn are remembered more for their military hegemony than for their cultural achievement.
The decline of the Chavìn and Sechìn cultures around the 5th century BC gave rise to a number of distinctive regional cultures. Some of these, including the Saliner and the Paracas, are celebrated for artistic and technological advances such as kiln-fired ceramics and sophisticated weaving techniques. From the Paracas arose the Nazca, whose legacy includes the immense and cryptic Nazca Lines. However, the accomplishments of these and other early Peruvian civilizations seem today to pale in comparison to the robust pre-Columbian civilization of the Inca.
The most startling feature of the great Inca empire was its brevity. In 1430, the realm of the Inca consisted of little more than the river valley around Cuzco. Less than a century later, through conquest and a canny policy of incorporating the best features of the societies they subjugated, the Incas controlled a vast territory of almost 1 million square kilometers--a dominion that extended from northwest Argentina to southern Colombia. The Incan capital, at Qosqo, was undoubtedly the richest city in all of the Americas, with temples literally sheathed in heavy gold plate. Although Qosqo's architecture remains only in fragments and foundations, the architectural accomplishment of the Inca's has survived intact at the astounding ceremonial centre of Machu Picchu.
In 1532, at the height of its power, the Inca empire was driven by a war of succession. In one of the great tragedies of history, it was at precisely this moment that Francisco Pizarro and his band of Spanish conquistadors arrived on the scene. Showing an uncanny ability to turn circumstances to  his own advantage, Pizarro used deception and guile to gain a personal meeting with Atahualpa, the Inca ruler, whom he coolly assassinated. In the face of fierce resistance, Pizarro and his men seized Cuzco and sacked the city. Although the Incas continued to fight for the next several years, their empire had ended and Spanish rule had begun.
Peru's population of about 23 million is divided almost equally between the highlands and the population centers of the coast, and the division marks a sharp cultural as well as geographic divide. The inland regions are marked by extreme poverty and subsistence agriculture, while the fertile river valleys of the lowlands have produced a wealthier, more cosmopolitan culture. Almost half of Peru's people are Indian, while another one third or so are mestizo. About ten percent are of European descent, and there are significant African and Asian minorities. Although Spanish is Peru's official language, a multitude of indigenous languages continue to hold sway in the highlands.
Giographia.com
The Trip - Lima
Flying from Miami, we arrived in the capital city of Lima. Customs and Immigration was easy to get through. Customs had a lottery system for checking. After going through Immigration you claim your luggage and proceed through Customs. You hit a button on a stanchion. If the light turns green you are clear and can leave. If it turns red you have your luggage inspected. I drew a green light and watched for a while (Ron got a red light). It appeared very random turning red several times in a row but with more green lights than red.
Outside customs we were greeted by the tour operator’s (Gate One Travel) local agent. After a little turmoil getting our bags on carts and then winding around the parking lot we finally got onto the bus. Of course, the bus was too small and they had to call for another vehicle to take the couple that did not make it onto the bus. Many seemed to be savvy travelers as they kept hanging around the luggage to make sure it got on the bus and not left behind or walked off with. While we were waiting a fog bank rolled in and blanketed the area with fog. We later found out that this was an almost daily occurrence and would play a role in our return to Lima at the end of the tour.
The bus wound through the streets of Lima to our hotel located in the area of Mira Flores (named because of all the flower gardens). The hotel was conveniently located across the street from the artisan markets where you could bargain for some great articles. Because we were going to Cuzco (Cusco or Qosqo) in a couple days, we decided to just look and not purchase until we returned. Several other travelers decided to do the same thing which would prove disastrous for them.
Lima is on the Pacific coast between the foothills of the Andes and the Pacific Ocean. Lima is a desert area getting only a couple millimeters of rain a year. However, the city is remarkably clean and plenty of flowers, trees and shrubs grow everywhere. A river flows down from the mountains through the heart of Lima. Water is pumped from this river for drinking and watering purposes. Everyone hoses down the sidewalks in front of their buildings keeping the area clean and watering the lush growth (especially in Mira Flores). Additionally, the almost daily fog condenses on vegetation and adds to the water the plants receive.
We had the opportunity to take guided tours or to just go off exploring on our own. A side trip to Nazca was available, but would take an entire day and cost about $600 each. We decided against it but 4 people on the trip did go and enjoyed it very much. Wondering around we found an archeological site. A tour of the site showed it was an old pyramid built of adobe or mud bricks. It was in various stages of re-creation. The city of Lima grew right to the foot of the pyramid which, until recently, appeared to be nothing more than a large hill overgrown with shrubs and other vegetation. The tour guide’s stories were fascinating. A tour worth taking.
The Metro Mercado (super market) was between these archeological ruins and our hotel. We were able to stock up on all sorts of snacks, drink and even pre-made sandwiches. Certainly this was a cheap meal to bring back to the hotel.
After 3 nights we took the harrowing trip back to the airport. The drivers of Lima are in a class all by themselves. They seem to take delight in seeing how close they can come to each other. For a pleasant ride, ignore the other vehicles and enjoy the sights or engage in a conversation.
A flight over the Andes took us to Cuzco. Cuzco (or Cusco) used to be the capital of the Inca empire - actually, the name Qosqo means "navel of the earth". In and around Cuzco, there are many impressive Inca ruins, such as the fortresses of Pisac and Sacsayhuamán, Ollantaytambo and Wiracocha.
Actually, the city already existed a long time before the rule of the Incas, but not much remains from that era. In any case, the blend of Inca and colonial architecture surrounded by hills and mountains is highly photogenic. The same goes for the many terraces used for agriculture that also date back to Inca times.
Upon arriving at Cuzco we were warned not to exert ourselves for the first day. The tour operator quickly gathered our luggage and loaded us onto the bus. As usual, we were greeted by street vendors standing outside the bus trying to sell everything but their first born child. The surprise here was that coca candy, coca leaves and coca gum was the main sales attraction. Upon arriving at the hotel we were greeted with hot coca tea. We were told that the alkoids in coca help the blood to carry more oxygen to the cells, or helps the cells to use what oxygen was available more efficiently. I found that keeping a coca leaf balled up in my mouth and biting it to extract some juice as necessary helped to deal with altitude sickness. (It takes about 3 bushels of coca leaves to make an ounce of cocaine so there was no danger of cocaine addiction.)
Not being one to listen about being in a new city and staying in bed for a day, I headed out on foot in search of anything. I found that I had to stop and rest to catch my breath every 30 feet or so. When going up a hill, I had to stop every 5 feet or so. There is a pill that you can get from your doctor that helps with altitude sickness. You start taking the pill 3-5 days ahead of the visit and it helps to deal wit the low oxygen. We did not find out about this pill until after we arrived in Peru. Sorry I don't remember the name.
That evening we took an optional tour of Cuzco at night. A city at night is so very different from a city during daylight. We drove through the streets of Cuzco before winding up the mountain side towards Sacsayhuamán, a temple at the top of one of the mountains surrounding Cuzco. Nearby we stopped at the Blanco Christo, a white statue of Christ, overlooking the city of Cuzco.
The next day we took a daylight city tour. A stop at the Plaza de Armas in the city center was interesting as we could see that glowing plaza from the top of the mountain. While there we were told that a tunnel was found that connects the cathedral to Sacsayhuamán. At the time we took that with a grain of salt. Upon returning I did some research and found that indeed at least one tunnel was found. (Check one of the articles here. Link to Picture.) It has since been sealed. The researcher entered the tunnel at Sacsayhuamán and followed it down. At one point he heard voices and found that it broke through into the basement of the cathedral. It is speculated that this tunnel system runs through the Andes from Columbia/Bolivia through Peru to Chile with a side tunnel running under the Pacific Ocean to the Galapagos Islands. This tunnel system is thought to predate the Incas and belonged to a race of tall white men.
The next day we took a side trip through the Sacred Valley of the Incas to Ollantaytambo. This 3 hour drive followed the Urubamba River said to be the head waters of the might Amazon River. At Ollantaytambo we encountered a village built of huge boulders, stone, white-washed mud and tile. It was so beautiful in its use of rock. We walked through the village to the sacred site where we were given a step by step explanation of everything and the life of the Inca. The Inca’s acceptance of human sacrifice as a way of life was fascinating. We climbed the terraces; looked at the “god” face in the cliffs of the opposite mountain; climbed into the crop storage buildings; and generally played billy goat. All too soon it was time to return to the bus.
The next day we were to take a side trip to Machu Picchu. Ron had been having a great deal of difficulty with altitude sickness so he stayed in bed that day – what a shame. There are two major ways to get to Machu Picchu. The most exciting is to hike the Inca Trail. However, you must be fit, make arrangements at least 3 months in advance (for ecology reasons the number of hikers is limited each season) and have the money to hire two guides and several porters. What gets carried in must be carried out! The second way is to take the train. There are three trains – the backpacker special, the vista dome and the Orient Express. The 3rd was opulent, but hardly worth the money for the 3 hour trip each way. The backpacker special was $89 but cattle car style. I took the vista dome for about $130. The trip followed, to some degree, the Inca Trail. The views were incredible. You could see ancient Inca structures on the hillsides and followed the Urubamba River flowing downstream. Because of the drop in altitude of several thousand feet, you could feel the temperature climb from freezing to balmy and the vegetation change from sparse to luscious. Upon arriving at the terminus train station in the town of Aguas Calientes (you can actually go one stop more but this one is cheaper and more convenient) you catch a bus that winds through the valley until finally zigzagging up the mountain side to the top at Machu Picchu. A short walk brings you to the entrance of the ruins. All that can be said is “WOW!”
Excerpts from an ad for the train sum it up:
“The train journey from Cusco to Machu Picchu is a highlight of any trip to the Andes. The scenery is simply spectacular, and the recently refurbished Vistadomes with their panoramic windows allow you to enjoy it in comfort. The 3 ¼ hour journey takes you through a changing landscape. First there is a steep climb out of Cusco into the surrounding hillside, by beans of a series of switchback turns known locally as “the zig zag”. Soon the train stops at the beautiful village of Poroy, and then descends into the Sacred Valley, passing by lush, green fields and colorful villages in the foothills of the Andes. From here on, there are wonderful vistas of the mountains and, deep in its dramatic canyon, the beautiful Urubamba River running through the Sacred Valley.
And what a destination awaits you! Machu Picchu, the Lost City of the Incas, is one of the wonders of the Americas. The stunning ruins of the ancient citadel, perched on a mountain peak high in the Andes, are perhaps the greatest surviving testament to Inca civilization. Built in the 15th and 16th centuries, Machu Picchu was the secret city of the Incas, never discovered by the Spanish. It was only rediscovered on July 24,1911, by and American, Professor Hiram Bingham, and it remains South America’s most spectacular archaeological site.”
Machu Picchu is without a doubt one of the places on this earth that someone must see. I place it up with my trips to Egypt, the old Soviet Union, the Grand Canyon, Iguazu Falls (Brazil) and China.
Once you are used to the altitude, which takes a couple days, you will really enjoy walking around the city of Cuzco. There is a picture around every corner. The day we were to fly back to Lima we had to get up early. Your wake-up time depended on which flight you had, starting about 5 AM. We were in the first wave going to the airport. Upon arriving, it was obvious there was aproblem. All flights to Lima were canceled. There was a tremendous amount of posturing when we found out that there were two other airlines that had not canceled their flights. Because Ron had altitude sickness he was selected for one of the few seats. I finally convinced them that I needed to accompany Ron. We finally got out of Cuzco about 4 PM. The problem with the flights was the usual fog in Lima, but earlier than usual that day, did not allow planes to get out in order to get back in. Four others on the trip got out also. But they had to pay for new tickets. The tour ooperator would not pay the cost. Now, we were among a handful from the tour group that made it back to Lima for the last night and the farewell dinner. We were able to get to the native markets to pick up the things we had scoped out earlier. I got a beautiful silver and malachite bracelate for my sister and a handmade wool tie with a llama on it. Those others who had put off buying things in Lima, as we did, lost their window because they flew in the next morning just in time to make their connecting flight back to the States. Those who decided to buy and store their purchases at the hotel had the problem of obtaining those things from storage. The rest of the trip went without problem. The national drink is a "pisco sour". Pisco is a brandy distilled from grapes. To make the sour you combine pisco, an egg white, sugar syrup and lime over ice. Shake the heck out of it and serve. I never bought one in Lima so I ended up buying a bottle of pisco in duty free and made my first one at home. Unfortunately, not having had one in Lima, I had nothing to compare with. The Peruvian brandy is different from that in the US. In the US the dregs from making wine is distilled. In Peru, the fresh fermented grapes are distilled. This give it a little more grapier and fresher flavor. As a follow-up - Ron never felt 100% better after returning to lower altitude. A month later he ended up in the cardiac care unit in congestive heart failure. The cardiologist said the altitude probably triggered an attack that was slowly coming on. This is good as he was able to get treatment earlier and is now doing well.
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